Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Reporting this Story


As I get out of my car, I hear two male voices shouting “Hey white girl!” It sounds good-natured, rather than sinister, so I get my stuff out, get my camera ready, then take off—I want to explore a little bit in here. It must be safe in the broad daylight, I tell myself.
Actually, for me this may be true, I’m sort of safe—but for the youth here, daylight does not bring with it any special reprieve from danger. Walking around inside Alice Griffith (Double-Rock) with a camera feels really risky. it’s just the feeling that everyone here knows everyone else—it’s a small community. Everyone who sees me knows I am not a member of it. As I explore and snap images of the overflowing trash and the kids riding bikes and playing in the street
(in a nice way, the street looks pretty safe—no kids will be hit by cars here, their potential perils are much more complex than that), one man calls over and asks me what I’m doing. He looks curious—I go over to chat with him. Sometimes people here assume I’m a cop.


I go and introduce myself to the guy, his name is Alapati Sagote Jr., and he’s really friendly. We talk about living in the projects. Mr. Sagote has been here for about ten years, though when I ask how long he has been here he answers “not long.” I tell him that I am trying to show people what it is like to live there—I want to show that regular people live here. Most of the people I see around here are doing regular Sunday stuff like grilling on their postage-stamp-sized Charlie Brown front lawns with tiny charcoal Hibachis or sitting in the sun on folding chairs—lots of guys working on their cars outside their homes and little children roller-skating around.

A group of people stands outside one unit in the shade talking. I take a photo of them from a distance and I hear one woman say “is that @$&^* bitch taking our picture?” I am pretty far away, but I turn around and approach the group. This could be an opportunity to meet some people. I show them the pictures and assure them that their faces can’t be seen. Their bristles settle a bit. We introduce ourselves. One man asks to see my badge. I laugh and shrug. Then they ask me sarcastically if I am from the Chronicle. I laugh again, say “no, I’m a freelance journalist.”
There are five of us standing under the trees. There are two men and two women, and they all say that this would not be a bad place to live if the powers that be would fix it up a little bit. Repairs are rare, and the grounds are not kept up well, they say. One woman, who looks pregnant says, “It isn’t the place, it’s the people in the place. Theses buildings aren’t the cause of any crime, just some of the people who live here.” This is the same thing I have heard each time I ask someone what it’s like living here. The buildings are shoddy. No repairs ever get done, and there are no playgrounds for the children. (Bayview has the largest population of kids in San Francisco, but only one pediatrician and Double Rock only has one playground and that’s for the Church near the opportunity center—the pregnant woman says it isn’t open to the general public. The playground half a block away was burned to the ground by vandals and never replaced. I guess that’s why the children here are all playing on the sidewalks and in the streets. They look like they are having fun, though. There is a basketball court near the community garden, but so far, I have never seen anyone using it.
I was waiting to meet someone on Cameron way for an interview last week, and I noticed a van pulling up with suited city employees getting out of it. They were touring units before and after renovation. Apparently they are fixing some of the units up, but most people I talk to say that improvements tend to happen right before the mayor is due for some photo-op visit, and that the Housing Authority is unresponsive to complaints about the conditions there.

Miss Jackie's Garden

Deep in Bayview among the empty warehouses and heavily tagged, boarded up storefronts, past the scratched, dull plexi-glass skeleton of the abandoned guard booth, and the old police sub-station, its emblem fading on the grey stucco, past the broken bicycles glinting in the bright sunshine and the old couch with its innards spewing out, t and the green and yellow two-story buildings—some with their windows and doors boarded up—Jackie Williams sits in her garden. She smokes long cigarettes hungrily, looking at her handiwork, dreaming of rich black earth. Rows and rows of vegetables stretch out before her minds-eye—orderly gopher-free beds of collards and beets and mustard greens.

She is dreaming of a brick barbecue pit large enough to roast a whole pig.

“Well I know I’m not gonna get it like I would really like it—everything just perfect, you know? But if it was left up to me I’d get it,” Williams, known as Miss Jackie to most, says.

In the afternoons, when the kids have left and the hardest work is through, when the tools have been put up—or not put up, because, says Jackie with a half shake of her head, “sometimes those kids jus’ leave tools lyin’ out to rust and I guess I’m gonna have to start dockin’ their pay,”—Miss Jackie holds court for friends and neighbors who want to stop by and chat.

She runs the Alice Griffith Community Garden in the middle of Alice Griffith Housing Project, better known as Double-Rock. The garden, a vestige of the San Francisco League of Urban Gardeners (SLUG), was reborn five years ago. She got the job through her friend Maurice Moret, who runs Peacekeepers, a crisis prevention center located at Double-Rock that helps youth there stay safe. Peacekeepers is a part of Hunters Point Family, a private non-profit youth program in Bayview that offers many support services including tutoring, leadership training and job training—that’s where Miss Jackie fits in. She teaches five or six youth at a time to tend the garden on Saturdays and Sundays, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Double-Rock housing projects are considered by many to be the most run-down, crime-ridden of the HUD projects in the United States. Situated in an idyllic spot adjacent to the Bay and Candlestick Park, Double-Rock was built to house military personnel and in 1974 was transferred to the Housing Authority. These homes were once the most sought-after low-income housing in the Bay Area. Miss Jackie has lived there for over 30 years. She said it was hard to get into Double-Rock back then. Although it has degenerated—no jobs with the shipyard closing for good in the late ‘70s and then the crack coming in the ‘80s (“I don’t know nothin’ about no weed or crack,” she says. “I don’t even know what it is, but I do know that at some point there were young men lurking in the shadows to steal your purse.”)

It’s Miss Jackie’s home though, and she isn’t scared. “I loved it here. It was very nice here and it’s just the different generations that come in. You know, ‘cause I mean, the buildings—they’re just here, but it’s the different generations come in—they’re not taught by their parents,” she pauses, turns and aims the sprayer she’s holding at a bush with purple and white flowers. “Then children are having children, you know, and it’s a tough situation. But I respect them, and they respect me because of that.”

Miss Jackie has run this organic garden for five years, hiring teenagers from Double Rock and the surrounding neighborhood to do the work. Her small salary comes from Peacekeepers, which is funded by the S.F. Housing Authority and the Mayor’s Office for Criminal Justice. Though she will be 64 on January 20th, she needs the job and can’t afford to retire. 21 years at Hartford insurance company doing clerical work earned her a paltry pension, and she needs to wait to collect her social security, so she can get a little bit more every month.

She shows the kids how to prepare the beds, plant and harvest the crops, and in turn they get $9 per hour and all the vegetables they want. (Which usually isn’t much, but volunteer Naomi Goodwin reminds Miss Jackie that teenagers don’t usually like vegetables. In this neighborhood, kids are more likely to go to a ‘candy house,’ someone’s home where candy, soda and ice cream are sold. The nearest corner store is blocks away.)

One day recently sister Stephanie (“we are all sisters here,” says Goodwin, who’s been working at the garden for four years, “it doesn’t mean anything but us all being friends. That’s why we call her sister Stephanie.”) from the Double-Rock Opportunity Center approaches calling, “Hey Miss Jackie, how you doin’ today, girl?” They talk about her seven-mile hike up mount Tam in Marin. She says she went out to a club the night before even though she never goes out to clubs anymore. Stephanie is building up to something and Miss Jackie helps to pull the story out of her, peppering it with strategic “Mmmhmms” and the occasional “oooh, yeah?” Stephanie goes on about the music at the club and how wonderful it was. Finally, she dishes, saying “…and I met a man there,” Jackie and Naomi cut her off with explosive whoops and Jackie cries, “I knew that was coming! I was waiting for that. Well, now tell us about this man.” And so sister Stephanie tells about the new man, who she met at the club.

Another old acquaintance comes by to say how sorry she is about Miss Jackie’s mom, who died in mid-September. The memorial was only four days previously, and it was beautiful, Jackie says, with a video of her mom as a baby and a nice eulogy. Jackie thanks her for her wishes and they talk about how hard it is to lose a parent and how even though you can see it’s coming, you are never really prepared for it. Her mom was in the hospital for two years before she died, the last four months in a coma, so her death was probably a blessing of sorts. But Jackie doesn’t say so. They shake their heads in tandem, sighing heavily.

The lady says, “Miss Jackie, I sure could eat more of that zucchini you gave me last week. Those were so tasty.”

“Mmhmm,” Miss Jackie says, “okay then, you come down later this week and pick some for yourself. But you got to do some weeding or watering while you’re here. I don’t mind if people take from the garden, but you got to put something back in.”

They say their goodbyes and Miss Jackie lights another cigarette. “Hay Naom, bring me that bottle of water from over there!” she calls to Naomi across the garden, which is about as large as a Wal-Mart parking lot. It’s a pain in the neck to keep forgetting tools and having to cross and re-cross the garden every time you need to fetch something, Jackie explains. So they holler to each other or call on their cell phones to save a trek across, sometimes.

Her phone is strung around her neck in a case like a set of reading glasses. She wears a knit cap with a brim, though it’s Indian summer, the hottest season here in San Francisco. A long-sleeved sweatshirt covers her trunk and arms, sweatpants her bottom half, her daily uniform along with sneakers on her feet that have been worn until they are nearly shapeless and the same color as the garden dirt. Her oval wire-rimmed glasses reflect the sun and obscure her eyes, making them hard to see. She is stoutly built, with strong, straight un-gnarled hands that can pull weeds, hold a trowel (“why don’t they just call this a hand-shovel? I don’t understand why they need all these fancy names for normal things in Horticulture,”) or yank a recalcitrant hose out of a knotted pile to water the orchard outside the chain-link fence of the main garden (kids climbed over several times and committed the usual mindless teenage deeds of petty vandalism, pulling out leeks and scallions and littering them all over the garden.“I asked housing to build me a higher fence, but no, no, they can’t do it. I don’t know why. I asked about barb-wire on the top, too, but of course they wouldn’t hear of that,” she says.) Her voice is clear and loud, with has just the right amount of rasp to hold the ear. She never mumbles, enunciating each syllable she utters. It’s easy to tell from the way she uses her voice that she is accustomed to getting her way. Decisive is one word that comes to mind.

Not everyone comes to the garden just to socialize. Two young teenage girls are digging small, shallow holes in the dark brown earth furrows, putting in five-inch cauliflower plants, then sweeping earth up around the bases and pushing them down with flat hands. They work at a steady pace in the hot afternoon sun.

“There’s some days that I don’t want to come to work but there’s some days when I know it’s going to be fun,” says one thirteen-year-old girl, “like when we’re planting and pulling out the weeds and stuff.” She has been working at Double Rock garden for about a year. She says she thinks she might like to be an architect later in life, but for now this is one of the only jobs around. Most employers require working papers, which she can’t get until she is sixteen. Her expression is neutral as she talks about Miss Jackie. She gives a little one-shouldered shrug, “Sometimes she can be hard on us but it’s just how you have to get the job done.”

“She has her rough sides,” says Goodwin, “but she’s from the old school, which is nice,” but sometimes, she says, they battle it out together and she has to say “This is now, Jackie.” Naomi says her old-school attitude works with managing the youth at the garden.

“One day,” remembers Miss Jackie, crumbling dirt with her leathery hand, “when I was a teenager, a tomato plant came up through the sidewalk. I cut it down and took it home to my mom’s house and stuck it in the ground. I had tomatoes that big,” she says, holding her fist in a ball and shaking it for emphasis. She smiles. She has been gardening ever since and considers this job at Double Rock her lifetime favorite job. She works many more hours than she is paid for, but says it’s worth it to her. Many afternoons she sits on a bench under a shade tree just looking at the garden.

Living at Double Rock



It boasts the best views in Southeast San Francisco—situated on a flat, grassy lot next to the bay, it’s difficult to reconcile the contrast between the this pastoral setting and the sight of the old tan and green dilapidated buildings sitting there rotting—Alice Griffith public housing complex. Most San Franciscans have never been back here, don’t even know that this community exists—unless they are 49’ers fans—the parking lot and stadium are a star quarterback’s pass away, and on game days, the crowd can be heard from the streets of Alice Griffith, better known as Double-Rock.

Jackie Williams has lived here for thirty years.

“Projects,” Williams says. “I hate that word. What do they mean ‘Project?’ To me, this place will always be called Alice Griffith Family Homes. That’s what it was when I was on the wait list for two years, that’s what it was when I moved in. This was a really nice place to live, with good families here.”

Williams, who runs the community garden at Alice Griffith, maintains that the buildings are the same as they always were, that it’s the people, not the buildings that make it hard to live here.

“The buildings are run-down, and the city doesn’t do much to change that, but it’s the people here that make it what it is,” Williams said. She said that the crime didn’t get really bad until the mid-eighties. Though she does not draw this parallel, crack is almost certainly to blame for the crime wave she describes. It decimated Bayview, already poor and full of jobless people, the neighborhood transformed into a war zone during the crack pandemic of the 80’s.

Alice Griffith public housing complex, also known as Double Rock, was built atop an old landfill in the 60’s, to house military personnel and was transferred in 1974 to the San Francisco Housing Authority to use as low-income housing. There are about 250 units in the complex, which can house 900 to 1000 people at their maximum occupancy.

To understand Double-Rock, (word has it that it's called Double-Rock because there are two matching rocks in the bay nearby,) one must be familiar with the complex history of the Bayview/Hunterspoint neighborhood. During the 1800’s and first half of the 1900’s Bayview was the meat packing and shipping district of San Francisco. Mostly Italian immigrants lived here, moving the cattle in and out, maintaining the railroad and processing meat. According to popular lore, the Hunters were a prominent family, and the neighborhood was named after them.

The community went through a transition in the 1940’s when the US Navy built a shipyard there. They needed a huge workforce to build warships, so they recruited mostly African American men from the South to come and work. People moved from Arkansas, Missouri and Louisiana, mostly. Williams’ family came from Little Rock, Arkansas so her father could work at the Hunterspoint shipyard.

The shipyard laid-off most of its employees at the end of the 60’s, and closed for good in the late 70’s. The power plant for PG&E was built here, the dump, the shipyard itself, which is now a Superfund cleanup site, and a sewage treatment plant. Asthma is four times as prevalent here as in other parts of the City, according to recent studies, and the breast cancer rate among black women in Bayview is the highest in the nation.

The population, 80 percent black at that time according to the 1990 census was now largely unemployed. Crack came along and with it more gun violence and gangs bloomed. People who lived through that time say that’s when Bayview/Hunterspoint became a war zone.

Since then, 50 percent of San Francisco’s black population has fled the city—too expensiv,too dangerous and not friendly to minorities are the usual complaints. Though Bayview has the highest percentage of homeownership in the City, many people who hold the titles to their homes are barely holding on. There are many tarps on roofs and rotting clapboards to be seen where people don’t have the income to fix their homes. Consequently, many people sell their homes out of desperation—they can stay in the City and starve, barely making their tax bills, not maintaining their homes with their Social Security checks, risking having their homes taken over by the city because of ‘urban blight’ or they can sell. Even a falling down house is valuable in San Francisco, where the median home price once topped $750,000.

In the middle of all that, sits Double-Rock. Poor, isolated from the rest of San Francisco, gated off from the rest of the world, one might expect it to be cold and unfriendly.

“I loved growing up here,” says 23-year-old Jasmine Marshall, counselor at Peacekeepers, a violence intervention after-school program for community youth. “My whole extended family lived here, so for me it’s memories of growing up, getting together with my Grandma and the rest of our family and sharing.” Marshall says she wishes people had a more accurate idea of what Double-Rock is like instead of just assuming that everyone in the community is a thug. She says she had a great childhood here, and that it’s a strong community where everyone knows everyone else—a rarity in a large city. “Even if you don’t like someone, your grannies were probably friends, and that’s enough for folks to respect one another here.” That’s the thing she values the most about her community—her least favorite part of living there has been watching the Police bully and brutalize young people in the community.

“They act like a gang,” Marshall says. “They abuse and cuss at people, beating them and trying to intimidate them—just like gang members. They don’t treat the people here like human beings.” Marshall says that when she was a child, they would play at an old playground of sorts. She said there was no swing set, but she remembers that she and her sister would play on the monkey bars all day long. She says she didn’t feel poor, but there was glass all through the sand under where the bars were, and one day her sister fell down and cut her chin on a piece. She had to get several stitches.

Mr. Alapati Sagote, Jr. has lived here for 10 years. “I haven’t been here long,” Sagote said. “This place is okay, I’ve raised my children here. I isn’t the place—look at this place, it’s beautiful—it’s the people in it. A few bad people in a good community, poisoning it for the rest of us.” It’s nice to live among other Samoans, he says, and there are many here. He says there isn’t much separation between races here and everyone gets along pretty well, for the most part. This housing complex mirrors the larger community of Bayview: 9 percent white, 48 percent black, 30 percent Asian, 1.3 percent Asian, Pacific Islanders, under 1 percent American Indian and about 10 percent ‘other,’ according to the block report from the 2000 census.

On a recent Sunday afternoon kids ride bikes and roller skate, people grill out on their tiny lawns, some are working on cars and chatting with one another. Strains of singing come from the church, where the Samoan choir practices. Sun beams down on the bay and the air is clear. Kids excited voices punctuate the lazy day. It brings to mind a small town—people wave and call out to each other. People are working in the garden, watering and planting. This is a tight community.

Marshall says she would love to see the community take control of their own lives. She’d like to see the people from the community fixing up the units, doing all the repair work and gardening. A community school with teachers form inside the gates would be great, she says. It would empower everyone, she says.

“It may be kind of dysfunctional, but I love this community,” Marshall said. All my memories are here. My family is here. I love this place.’